Pairings | Dessert wine

What wine to pair with cherry desserts
Cherry is one of the fruit flavours most often found in wine and liqueurs so does that make them a good pairing for cherry desserts? It depends how intense the cherry flavour is.
A clafoutis, for example, (a French batter pudding with cherries) is as much about the crisp batter as the cherries so it could take a light sweet dessert wine such as a Monbazillac while a boozy dish of macerated cherries might well need something stronger - or given the booze is in the pud - arguably nothing at all!
With a black forest gateau or other dessert that combines chocolate and cherries try a sweet red wine such as a Recioto della Valpolicella, late harvest Tannat or late harvest Zinfandel. Alternatively you could opt for a cherry-flavoured liqueur such as cherry brandy which you could either serve in a pretty liqueur glass or as a frozen shot. (That’s also a good pairing for cherry ice-cream, cherry sundae or cherry trifle.)
Cherry-flavoured beers e.g. Kriek are also a great match with cherry desserts, as you can see from my recommendation with this chocolate roulade recipe from my book An Appetite for Ale. I also like their slight tartness with a cherry-topped cheesecake. They make delicious fruit jellies too - as in this recipe, again from the Appetite for Ale book.
And cherry pie? I’m never totally convinced about wine and pies especially if they’re served hot. It depends on the proportion of pastry to filling. If it’s more about the pie crust go for a standard sweet dessert wine as with clafoutis or a gently sparkling brachetto d’acqui. If there is more filling than pastry I’d be inclined to go for a sweet red again, maybe even a fruity young ruby port.

The best food pairings for Tokaji Aszu
Tokaj or Tokaji Aszu from Hungary is one of the most historic and delicious dessert wines which now has it’s own dedicated day on December 10th but if you’re looking for the ideal food pairing you can take it much further than the dessert course.
Like Sauternes the grapes are botrytised, in other words affected by a fungus that allows them to shrivel to a delicious sweetness (a process called noble rot). Look out for wines that have 5 or 6 puttonyos a historical measurement of sweetness that related to the number of hods or containers of botrytised berries that were added to the grape must.
It’s richer than Sauternes - less a question of honey and lemon and more tropical fruits and orange marmalade which makes it go particularly well with caramelised and dried fruits. (And, you’ll be pleased to hear, chocolate!)
What desserts go with Tokaji
Roast pineapple
As in this signature dessert of tipsy cake with spiced roast pineapple at Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant Dinner (which has recently re-opened in London)
Caramelised apple dishes such as tarte tatin and this wonderful sounding dish from a Hungarian restaurant called Barta Pince in Mád which accompanies a dessert called Åszi alma (’Autumn Apple’). It contains creme brulée, apple jelly, granola, marinated apples, coffee ganache and apple chips
Dark chocolate, especially with orange like this chocolate marmalade slump cake.
Christmas pudding
Not the easiest dish to match with a dessert wine but Tokaji aszu works really well particularly with lighter, fruitier styles of pud. You could drink it with panforte too.
What savoury dishes go with Tokaji?
Foie gras
The most popular pairing in Hungary where foie gras is as popular as it is in France. And it's true Tokaji goes incredibly well with it, particularly when it’s served hot. You can download a list of suggested servings from their website aszuday.com. And if you don’t eat foie gras it’s also very good with a goose or duck liver parfait.
Sichuan or Thai dishes that combine heat and sweetness such as this dish of smoked caramelised salmon from a wine dinner cooked by two Bordeaux-based Chinese chefs we reported on a while back. Or for a longer list check out he Tokaj website
Blue cheese, especially Stilton. An accidental discovery at London cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield which I’ve repeated on many an occasion as a lighter (and equally delicious) alternative to port
Photo ©visionsi at fotolia.com

The best food pairings for Sauternes
Sauternes is a famously luscious sweet wine from the Bordeaux region of France but what kind of food should you pair with it? This post deep dives into what you should eat with Sauternes, both sweet and savoury.
The French would immediately say either foie gras or Roquefort - two savoury pairings for Sauternes and Barsac that may or may not appeal to you (not me, in the former case, because I don’t - or try not to - eat foie gras).
There’s also a history in the region of pairing Sauternes with poultry. “Poultry of all kinds marries well with sweet wines; one of the most famous dishes of the region is roast chicken liberally basted with Sauternes, and then served with a bottle of the same wine” writes Jill Norman in an archive post on Sweet Bordeaux and Savoury Food you might find interesting.
Sauternes producers often match their wines with Chinese and other Asian dishes such as lacquered pork to broaden its appeal but while these pairings can undoubtedly work it generally takes a skilled chef working with a specific wine to make it risk-free.
What about pairing Sauternes with desserts though? Oddly the French don’t seem too keen on the idea though to me it makes perfect sense especially with fresh fruit.
So here are my top pairings which are by and large quite simple. The same sort of pairings would work with other sweet wines from the region such as Cadillac and, Loupiac though the latter don’t have the same intensity (more of a problem with savoury dishes than with sweet ones).
One other thing to bear in mind: the best pairing will also depend on how old a wine is - an old Sauternes needs more respectful treatment - perhaps even no food at all - than a young one. Maybe cooked rather than fresh fruit for example (see the roast pineapple suggestion below)
What to eat with Sauternes
Dessert pairings for Sauternes
Ripe peaches and nectarines
Strawberries and cream
Simple French fruit tarts - especially apple and apricot tart
Roast pineapple - maybe the perfect match for Chateau d’Yquem on one of the rare occasions I’ve drunk it. I suspect a pineapple upside down cake would be rather delicious too.
Creamy desserts such as crème brûlée and panna cotta (especially with passionfruit, mango or early season forced rhubarb - see this post on Sauternes and Rhubarb).
Mille-feuille, custard tarts and other simple patisserie
Savoury pairings for Sauternes
Foie gras - if you must - but I always think it’s hard to start a meal with a sweet wine. As a high class snack though, maybe. It will also work with similar dishes like a duck or chicken liver parfait
Sauternes and cheese pairing
Not just salty blue cheeses like Roquefort and Beenleigh Blue but, more surprisingly, washed rind cheeses like Epoisses, provided they’re not too mature and gooey.
Creamy blue cheese spreads or terrines work too as does a creamy savoury cheescake
Glazed or lacquered pork or quail
Shellfish dishes with a sweet edge such as scallops and grilled lobster (better with older vintages)
Hot/sweet Thai dishes with younger Sauternes
Savoury dishes that include tropical fruit such as duck and mango
Sweet-flavoured vegetables such as confit’d fennel, roast carrots and sweet potato can assist a Sauternes pairing with ingredients such as chicken or pork
What temperature should you serve Sauternes?
The ideal serving temperature for Sauternes and similar sweet Bordeaux whites is about 10-12°C (50-54°F), at the upper end of that scale for an older wine, bearing in mind a half bottle will chill more quickly than a full-size one.
You may also be interested in this post from the archives
Sweet or savoury - what is the perfect match for Sauternes?
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